No hot water or water that turns cold
Separate a fuel, power, flow, thermostat, and recovery problem before replacing parts. Start with the control state and what changed.
Start with no heatField-tested guidance · tank · tankless · RV
Start with the symptom you can see. Get the likely cause, the checks that are safe to make, and a clear point where a licensed plumber should take over.
Written around real service-call diagnosis, not product roundups.
A better first visit
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A clearer way to troubleshoot
Water heaters rarely fail with a helpful label. A cold shower, wet pan, blinking light, or strange sound is the starting clue. The useful next step is matching that clue to the heater type, energy source, and timing of the failure.
Our guides are built for that first pass: identify the symptom, make the safe observations, and stop before the job moves into gas, high voltage, combustion, or pressure work.
How we build the guidesEvery useful diagnosis answers
Inside the library
The library currently includes 365 focused troubleshooting guides. Each one starts with an observable symptom instead of asking you to guess the part name first.
That matters because “no hot water” can mean a dead element, a gas ignition failure, a tankless flow problem, or a control that has locked out. The right first check depends on the system in front of you.
Search the full guide librarySeparate a fuel, power, flow, thermostat, and recovery problem before replacing parts. Start with the control state and what changed.
Start with no heatName the wet component first. A fitting leak, drain leak, T&P discharge, and leaking tank have very different next steps.
Start with a leakPhotograph the exact pattern, note when it happens, and avoid repeated resets. The timing often tells you more than the code alone.
Read the code guideFlow sensors, freeze damage, bypass valves, 12-volt controls, and coach layouts need a different diagnostic path than a standard tank.
Explore RV diagnosisBrowse by system
Leaks, noises, codes, shutdowns, and the fastest safe first checks.
View guides 74 guidesPilots, burners, ignition faults, gas odors, and venting problems.
View guides 83 guidesFlow faults, cold showers, lockouts, condensate, and brand codes.
View guides 41 guidesBreakers, elements, thermostats, ECO trips, and heat-pump units.
View guides 42 guidesAtwood, Suburban, Truma, Dometic, and coach water-heater faults.
View guidesMost useful first reads
A Rheem that will not heat is an element, ECO, gas valve, or dip tube. Diagnose by fuel type, then hire a licensed tech.
Read diagnosis TroubleshootingA burst tank: shut the cold inlet, kill energy, stay off the water. Never cap the T&P. Hire a licensed plumber in your zip now.
Read diagnosis GasA gas water heater that lights then dies is thermocouple, thermopile, draft, or the gas valve. If you smell gas, leave. Get a licensed tech now.
Read diagnosis ElectricA breaker that holds, then trips, is a shorted element, wet thermostat, or undersized breaker. Kill 240V, then hire a licensed tech.
Read diagnosis TanklessCode 12 means the Rinnai lit, then lost flame. One reset after you check vents and gas, then hire a licensed tech.
Read diagnosis RVAtwood/Dometic dead? Split gas vs electric vs ECO vs bypass. Follow this tree, then hire an RV tech.
Read diagnosisBefore you begin
You can safely identify the heater type, read the display or status light, check an accessible shutoff, and note when the problem started. Stop before gas controls, combustion, 240-volt covers, pressure devices, or any area with water near electricity.
A reset clears a safety device; it does not repair the condition that caused the trip. A repeated trip can point to a shorted element, blocked vent, flame-sensing fault, dry-fire condition, or unsafe temperature or pressure problem.
Look for a gas pipe and burner or vent assembly, or a dedicated double-pole electrical breaker and access panels. Do not remove covers to identify it. The rating plate usually names the fuel and model safely from the outside.
Treat a leak from the tank shell, a streaming temperature-and-pressure valve, water near electrical equipment, or flooding that cannot be isolated as urgent. Close the cold inlet only if you can do it safely, keep clear of hot discharge, and call a qualified professional.
Safety before diagnosis
Leave the area when gas is involved, shut off water or power only when you can do it safely, and get a licensed professional involved.
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